Critically, Transparent
Image courtesy of Kaufmann Mercantile
This article originally published in the Kaufmann Mercantile Field Notes.
THIS IS TOO COMPLICATED, EVEN FOR ME… AND IT’S MY JOB
If you’re reading this, chances are you care about what you purchase. Growing a community of like-minded people — those conscious consumers who want to know more about how and by whom a product is made — ensures the wares we find in the marketplace are good for us, good for the people who make them and good for our environment.
Therein lies the importance of transparency. If all companies were open about how their goods were made — well, I wouldn’t have much to say. The problem is that regulations and enforcements are different around the world; not all ingredient lists are mandatory; and certification agencies vary in power, reliability and trustworthiness.
If the product we want isn’t clearly marked, how do we find the information we need to make an educated decision? How can we avoid investing hours of research when all we want is a simple tube of toothpaste? Worldwide, household goods and services spending is about 20 trillion dollars — and the competition for your dollars is brisk. Yet tracing a product back to its roots (quite literally) is difficult even, at times, for the manufacturer.
As a designer, I am hyper-aware of what goes into the marketing process of a product. A grass-colored bottle with nice words like “eco-friendly” and “organic ingredients” doesn’t necessarily mean those claims are true or complete. If I’m shopping for, say, a new shampoo, the first thing I do is turn that bottle around and read the ingredients. Before trying on a t-shirt, I find the inside label to check the country of origin and fabric content.
The packaging and labeling (if present) is only the tip of the iceberg — i.e. the information that the company has chosen, or is legally required, to present. Companies that take pride in their manufacturing process will often have detailed breakdowns of methods and materials right there on their website. Dig further. Ask questions.
Eventually, it is possible to build up your own trustworthy network of suppliers. By nature, business works on supply and demand. If we insist on transparency, it will start to become the norm. Living in an age when revolutions can happen online, consumer power has never been more prevalent. By shopping with retailers that share our priorities, we support and encourage the growth of those practices.
TOP FOUR TIPS
1- Read labels. On textiles in the U.S. and Canada, it is legally required to list the contents and country of origin. For children’s textiles, a tracking number or address even identifies the factory it originated from. If there’s no label, or is a product that doesn’t require one, check the company website or call. If you’re looking for information on cosmetics or edibles, a good place to start is the Environmental Working Group Consumer Guides. It’s a bit of a rabbit hole to go down, but slowly familiarizing yourself with terms and methods will make it manageable and give you some buying empowerment.
2- Be aware of buzz words. “Handmade” sounds special (which it is!), but many consumer goods are made by hand regardless. “Organic,” “natural,” “cruelty-free” and “fair-trade” are just words unless a reputable third party certification agency has authenticated those claims. The agency can be looked at a bit closer as well: What are the standards they are upholding? How often do they re-certify? Who oversees the development of testing?
3- Establish some go-to suppliers. Brand loyalty is a powerful tool, and you are in control of that. The more consumer dollars you siphon to brands you believe in, the more you are reinforcing the feasibility of their business model. As a bonus, having spent some time researching those companies, you will now have some trusted sources that you know are more likely to create things the way you want.
4- Stay curious. If you’re holding a soft bamboo scarf in your hands but know that bamboo stalks are extremely hard; if you notice that the flammability tag on your mattress has warnings about inhaling fumes; if you see that “perfume” is listed on your moisturizer but not the ingredients in the perfume itself… Congratulations, you’ve already started on the right path. Keep asking why.
